Few skin concerns are as quietly frustrating as melasma. It arrives gradually, often after a pregnancy, a change in contraception or a summer holiday, and it settles across the cheeks and forehead in soft brown patches that no amount of concealer quite covers. Then, just when it seems to be fading, a warm afternoon in the garden brings it straight back.
At House of Skincare, melasma is one of the most common reasons clients come to see us at our Exeter and Newton Abbot clinics. It is also one of the most misunderstood. Many people have spent years and a considerable amount of money on brightening products that were never going to work, simply because the underlying cause was never addressed.
This guide explains what melasma actually is, why it behaves the way it does, and what genuinely helps.
Melasma is a form of hyperpigmentation that produces symmetrical patches of brown, greyish or tan discolouration on the face. It most commonly appears across the cheeks, forehead, upper lip, bridge of the nose and jawline.
The symmetry is the giveaway. Where sun spots tend to appear as scattered, individual marks, melasma forms in broader patches that mirror each other on both sides of the face. This pattern is one of the first things our practitioners look for during a consultation.
It affects women far more often than men, with hormonal fluctuation playing a central role. That said, men do develop melasma, and it should never be dismissed as a purely female concern.
Melasma develops when the pigment-producing cells in the skin, known as melanocytes, become overactive and deposit excess melanin. Several triggers drive that overactivity, and most people with melasma are dealing with more than one at a time.
Pregnancy, the combined contraceptive pill, hormone replacement therapy and the perimenopausal years can all prompt melasma. The condition is so closely associated with pregnancy that it is sometimes called the mask of pregnancy. For some women it fades after birth, though for many it lingers indefinitely.
UV light is the single biggest aggravating factor. Even brief, incidental exposure walking the dog or sitting near a window can deepen existing patches. Devon may not have the climate of the Mediterranean, but UV levels here are more than sufficient to trigger and worsen melasma throughout the year.
This is where melasma differs from ordinary sun damage. Infrared heat and visible light, including the blue light from screens, can both stimulate pigment production. Hot baths, cooking over a stove and long drives in warm sunshine all contribute more than most people realise.
If a parent or sibling has melasma, your likelihood increases. Those with medium to deeper skin tones, including Asian, Mediterranean, Hispanic and Black skin, are also more prone to it because their melanocytes are naturally more reactive.
Harsh scrubs, aggressive treatments and irritating products can all worsen melasma by triggering an inflammatory response. This is precisely why the wrong treatment can leave the skin looking worse than before.
Understanding this next point saves a great deal of disappointment.
Melasma is a chronic condition, which means it is managed rather than cured. The melanocytes remain reactive even after visible pigmentation has cleared, so without ongoing protection and maintenance, the patches will return.
There is a second complication. Melasma often sits deeper in the skin than other forms of pigmentation, sometimes reaching into the dermis. Surface exfoliation, however diligent, will not reach it. Meanwhile, treatments that generate significant heat, including certain lasers, risk stimulating the very cells causing the problem. This is why melasma requires a considered, specialist approach rather than a generic pigmentation protocol.
Our starting point is always a full consultation at our Newton Abbot clinic. We assess the depth, type and likely triggers of your pigmentation before recommending anything, because a treatment that transforms one person’s skin can aggravate another’s.
Cosmelan is our leading option for persistent melasma and one of the most established professional depigmentation methods in the world. It works through a dual action, first breaking down existing melanin deposits, then regulating the melanin overproduction that causes pigmentation to keep returning.
The method combines a single in-clinic session with a structured home protocol running over several months. Crucially, it is suitable for all skin types and tones, including deeper phototypes where other approaches carry a higher risk. For clients who have tried everything else without success, Cosmelan frequently provides the breakthrough.
Carefully selected chemical peels can improve superficial pigmentation and refine overall tone. Formulation and strength matter enormously with melasma-prone skin, so these are always tailored rather than applied off the shelf.
A prescribed AlumierMD routine supports every professional treatment we deliver. Ingredients that inhibit melanin production, alongside daily broad-spectrum SPF, form the foundation of long-term control. Without a proper home routine, in-clinic results simply will not hold.
Our Harmony XL Pro system treats many forms of pigmentation extremely effectively. With melasma specifically, laser requires careful judgement, as heat can occasionally worsen the condition. We will only recommend it where we believe it genuinely suits your skin, and we will tell you honestly if a different route makes more sense.
Alongside professional treatment, a few daily habits make a substantial difference. Wear a high-factor broad-spectrum SPF every single day of the year, reapplying it when you are outdoors. Wear a wide-brimmed hat during summer months. Take note of heat exposure as well as sunlight. Be gentle with your skin and resist the temptation to scrub away what looks like surface discolouration.
Consistency achieves far more here than intensity ever will.
Melasma is a chronic, hormonally influenced form of pigmentation that sits deeper in the skin than most people expect, which is why brightening creams so often disappoint. It responds best to a specialist approach that reduces existing pigment while regulating the cells responsible for producing it, supported by disciplined daily sun protection.
At House of Skincare, we have helped many clients across Exeter, Newton Abbot and the wider Devon area regain confidence in their complexion. If melasma has been affecting yours, get in touch with our team or book a consultation online. We will assess your skin properly, explain your options clearly, and help you find an approach that genuinely works.